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bose l1 repair manualPlease do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Basszus vegfoka 2-3mp mulva megfut vagy pozitivba vagy negativba ha nincs a hangszoro rarakva, hangszoroval azonnal letilt, (amikor a kimeneten eljut DC 4V-ig a vedelem lekapcsolja relevel az erositot). Mikor a MUTE hibat kerestem, volt olyan eset is, hogy nem futott meg a kimenet es szolt a basszus rendesen, de ujboli bekapcsolaskor ha nem halkitottam le a potit akkor kikapcsolt a rele, ha lehalkitottam akkor jo lett, de nagyon susogott, arra hasonlitott mint amikor FM radio nincs az allomason, van egy kozos mute tranzisztor az kapcsolja az osszes tobbit, ha azt kiszedtem akkor is megmaradt a susogas, szerintem visszafele jott valamelyik oldalrol ezert szedtem ki mindegyik oldalrol a tranzisztorokat, nem akartam bajlodni vele, hogy honnet jon a susosgas vissza. Mi lehet a gond? Bose Sounddock 1 tapegyseg csati Sziasztok. Egy baratom megkert, hogy talaljak vagy gyartsak egy tapegyseget a Bose dokkolojahoz. Sajnos az eredetiket aranyarban adjak, igy gyartanom kell egyet. Talatam is egy elegans kis 4 pines csatit, de fennakadtam az eredeti csatlakozo labkiosztasan. Talaltam egy rajzot de nem tudom eldonteni, hogy a kabelen levot abrazolja, vagy a dokkoloban levot. Ha valakinek dolga volt ilyennel, es tudna segiteni, kerem ne tartsa vissza magat. Koszonom.. Bose Lifestyle CD-20 FLC kijelzo halvany Sziasztok! A fenti keszuleknek halvany a kijelzese.http://www.dailysundry.com/userfiles/bosch-shu66c06uc-manual.xml

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Eleg erdekesen van megoldva a kijelzo tapfesze, sokban fugg a bejovo 12VAC feszultsegtol. Kerdesem az lenne, hogy a futest probaljam emelni, vagy a -24V-ot. A D8-on a 30V is kevesebb, de az AC 4.5V is. Melyik befolyasolja jobban a fenyerot. A futes, vagy a negativ tapfesz? Udv: Jacint BOSE bekotesi rajz Legyszi legyszi ha valaki tudnasegiteni egy BOSE AMP2440-as erosito bekoteseben,azt nagyon szepen megkoszonem. Ez AUDI A3-asbol van, a steker nincsmeg. Similar manuals: You can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). No part of this work may be reproduced, modified, distributed, or otherwise used without prior written permission. Whether you are a musician amplifying your instruments, a mobile DJ entertaining an audience, or the host of your own special event, this system will provide quality sound for audiences of approximately 100 people. The examples below will help you quickly identify the position that can work best for you. Collapsed position Extended position Loudspeaker Array Extension Tabletop Power Stand. Setting up in the collapsed position To get the most sound quality and ensure that seated audience members enjoy the full frequency range of the system, position it on a table (shown above) at ear-level or at the front edge of a stage (not shown). Either one can be used on the top or bottom, but if one extension is used, both must be used. Do not connect any other sources to this input. 1. Before using the microphone, adjust the Channel 1 Volume control fully counter- clockwise. The ToneMatch preset is designed specifically for use with an acoustic guitar.Wireless Wired. Mixed setup A more elaborate multiple musician setup could be as shown below. No part of this work may be reproduced, modified, distributed or otherwise used without prior written permission. Install in accordance with the manufacturer’s instruc- tions.http://elk43.com/userfiles_1/bosch-shu66c05uc-manual.xml Geen enkel deel van deze uitgave mag gereproduceerd, gemodificeerd, gedistribueerd of op andere wijze worden gebruikt zonder schriftelijke toestemming vooraf.One carton contains the L1 model I power stand, AC power cord, R1 remote control with cable, Owner’s and Quick Setup guides, L1 model I carrying bag, CD-ROM, and a spare fuse. The other carton. Moving the completely assembled unit is not recommended. Placing the L1 model I power stand in the right location is an important step in the process of setting up this product to create your own individualized sound. Determining the best location for your performance depends on several things: size of staging area, number of performers, and if you will be sharing the L1 model I power stand connections. Plug the female end of the power cord into the AC Mains jack on the L1 model I power stand. Remove the top L1 model I Cylindrical Radiator Place one foot on the L1 model I power stand to support your back. Firmly grasp the top section with one hand. Using your other hand, press the release button with your thumb and remove the top section from the bottom section. B1 bass modules can be placed on the floor vertically or horizontally. Up to four modules can be stacked when placed horizontally (Figure 5). The L1 model I power stand uses the signals on two of the four wires to automatically sense how many B1 bass modules are connected to it. DO NOT SUB- STITUTE the supplied cable with a 2-wire speaker cable. See the preset guide inside the L1 model I power stand panel door for a list of available presets. Some effects MUST be hooked up in serial. Serial connection method With the serial method, the complete signal is routed directly into one or more effects processors. Search results for: (found: ) ask for a document File Date Descr Size Popular Mfg Model: Found in chassis2model: Found in repair tips. That will help us determine what is going on.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/78147It may happen with loud music because the speaker will be vibrating and shake the loose connection. This will sound like a clean muting of all audio for a second or so. There will be no visual indication.The manual states 110 and 220 for good measure) coupled with high signal level. This can be caused by a low power source, or one where the outlets are a very long distance from the electrical panel, extra equipment on the same electrical branch, power sags or dropouts, long or multiple extension cords, or small gauge extension cords. The LCD display will remain lit, but be blank until the unit restarts. The L1 Model II Power Stand can reset but it does not show on the indicators.Also be aware that separate wall outlets may still be on the same breaker.This can happen under direct sunlight outdoors when the temperature exceeds the maximum operating temperature. Check the access to the fan is clear (opening at the front of the power stand) and that legs are on a flat sturdy surface. If the power stand is on a carpet, it may sink down and obscure the vents on the bottom. Did you miss your activation email ? There was some saltwater splashed on to the unit. Previous tech had a look and gave up saying there was too much corrosion. I had a look inside and there was very minimum to no corrosion. I used a dremel to remove the carbon and measured the resistance the short was now removed. I cleaned the connectors. This was on the front panel board, only place where the salt water could have effected. After powering on, the unit keeps shutting down and then starts back up(keeps cycling) due to high current draw. I should mention I have got a 100W bulb in series with the input. All the voltages measurements taken seemed okay and the unit did not shut down. The current draw from the mains were a bit high still. I had a look at the other power supply boards which powers up the amplifiers (page 20 of the pdf).http://acropolissa.com/images/bose-l1-repair-manual.pdf All these were connected at the time just not connected to the amplifier section. I noticed charring of R507 and R508 both have failed open. Z501 and Z502 have shorted out. The two mosfets Q501 and Q502 have both failed open. (I have marked in the photo). What could be the cause of this. I checked the amplifier sections thinking something might have shorted out. Everything seemed to look in order. Could the high current draw be caused by these components being failed. I noticed that all the boards needs to be connected for stable voltages. I noticed by removing this power supply board the voltage ouputs of the aux power supply outs have gone slightly up. I hope some one could help me understand this power supply, and what might have caused this components to fail. Any idea on what to look for next. I have tried attaching the pdf of the service manual in this post but it doesn't seem to upload. Here is the link for the file its in the first post: Thanks in advance. p.s I came across this blog which has got some good pictures of the unit You've got 4 transistors and 2 freewheeling diodes, any of which could blow out the rest. Did you check all six. I really wouldn't run anything on a light bulb. I hope that you took it out of circuit. Ok, it's fine for a quick check to see if something is totally shorted. The problem is, everything today is constant power, decrease the voltage (drop across bulb) and the current (tries to) go up. That kind of thing was ok with old tube equipment with unregulated power supplies. When all the boards are connected (amplifier, power supplies etc). The units starts shutting down after turn on. I noticed that after a while D502 keeps shorting out. Changed it powered it up again and yet the same thing. Then what I tried was replaced the shorted out diode powered the unit up but this time I didn't connect the amplifier board. The same thing happens the unit keeps shutting down. This time I turned off the unit before the diode shorted out.http://quickfix-poland.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1626c02ccc56db---community-based-procurement-manual.pdf I removed this particular power rupply (there are 3 identical power supplies in this unit) and powered up the unit again. This time it didn't shut down. I should also mention there was some sparked marks from the heat sink where the mosfets are mounted to the chassis of the unit. After troubleshooting for sometime I came across bulged capacitors(but this was from other power supply boards). I couldn't find any obvious issues. After replacing these components I came across I checked each power supply separately and everything seemed to be ok. Connected all the boards together - same thing. Unit keeps shutting down. So I assumed it might be the 100W bulb which I had in series with the unit. So I removed it placed the 10A fuse provided and powered it up. This time D502 blowed up. I replaced the fuse and took out the problematic power supply out. Powered on the unit, the current draw was unusually high I thought, so I turned of the unit. I am pretty much confused on what the issue could be. Why is it D502 which always blows, and could you please explain what the use of the zeners Z501 AND Z502. Any more tips on this would be greatly appreciated In normal operation they are effectively an open circuit. They only way that they would blow up dramatically would be if there were an internal or external short between drain and gate. Did you check D503 and D504 too? (With the amplifier disconnected). I would have thought that D502 would be able to take anything that the MOSFETS could dump into the transformer. But you seem to be saying that it takes a while for them to blow. If they are overheating and blowing there must be some serious current. I would try to test things using the shortest possible power on to get a reading off it. Check the voltage on C516 on a good supply with no amplifier connected. Check it on your bad supply. Don't go for accuracy, just really quickly.https://localhost/travestismexico/paneldecontrol/files/compuprint-4056-plus-manuale.pdfThe unit cycles for sometime and then the D502 blows at that instance the bulb also remains on at bull brightness. However I checked the outputs of the other power supply with the faulty one removed and they register as around 25V but its very unstable. I am assuming that's because all the power supply aren't connected. What else should I check?:S Is it the voltage or the current. Are you sure that your replacements are the right ones. Can you repeatedly cycle without blowing if you do it for short enough each time. Hook up a 5K resistor (ok, 4.7k, 5.1k, whatever) to a LED on each of the 27V outputs. Do the LEDs go on? It could be that the transformer is shorted (but I'd expect the MOSFETs to go first). Check the transformer winding resistances against the good supplies. Is the snubber resistor R511 ok? I have included the picture of the last time it has blown. Notice the carbonized PCB at where the heat sink is suppose to be soldered. Is this a problem? Yes I could repeatedly cycle without blowing the diode if its done for short time. This time Q501 and Q502 drain to source is shorted. I would have to replace them too. Nice idea with the leds, I shall try it. I will have a look at the transformer wingdings too. The resistor R511 checks out ok. I would like to ask what the use of this snubber resistor. Thanks so much for the help Are you triple sure that you have D502 in the right direction. If it were backwards, it would blow sky high and also take out Q501, Q502. When you started out was it all so burnt. Are you cleaning all that carbon burn out? I had taken pictures before I took them out and also checked against other supplies as well. The very first time as I mentioned in my first post the zeners and the mosfets were faulty. I didn't realize then the diode was also shorted out. Its only when I was replacing the mosfets I noticed the shorted diode. I replaced it before powering up. Yes I am cleaning out the carbon. I'll report back. Thanks.http://www.theagentpipeline.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1626c02dc372e6---canon-g9x-manual.pdf Possibly gate discharge resistors. I didn't see them mentioned. The moment the power is on Q501 and Q502's drain and source shorts out instantly. If I let the unit cycle for a couple of times then D502 blows up. I checked each power supply separately used a LED to check the outputs. This only happens with the faulty power supply. I assume the protection works as the supply shuts down. I have checked ohms readings of the winding of the transformer against a good supply and it's identical. What I can't figure out is why the mosfets keeps shorting out. Interesting fact - The heatsink which the mosfets are mounted on are actually used to connect the positive input to one of the transformers terminal. Eventhough there are mica strips there is a connection between the heatsink and the tabs of the mosfet. Which is the case with all the power supplies. Thanks in advance PS: R501 and R502 are okay You could try swapping in one of the known good transformers. It's unlikely to be the problem, but it would take something off the list. Since you have a good identical power supply, you might try comparing some resistance measurements between the two after you think you've replaced all the bad parts. Any discrepancies likely means you've missed something. But I can't figure out how this is happening. Its only when I put in the screw it shows a connection. The mica strip is intact, there were no rubber spacers used with the screws. I cross checked with the other power supplies and its only happening with this faulty one. The screws are quite tight, with the other power supplies. Finally what I did was I had the screws of the tab Q503 and Q504 slightly loose with the faulty supply. The unit is working now with stable power supply. I have attached a photo of the power supply, as you can see the heat sinks are connected to the positive input of the supply.http://xn--80akij1ajew.xn--p1ai/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1626c02e34b932---canon-gl1-repair-manual.pdf Q501 and Q502's drains shows a connection with the heat sink but that's from the drain being tied to the positive supply and not from actually touching the heat sink. I am still wondering how the two transistors are connecting with the heat sink because visually there is no connection. Thanks. There are many techniques to understand how to read a wiring diagram, and with the rise in the prevalence of the skill set there are many available resources. A wiring diagram can be among the most vital of diagrams, since it's the only way that a specialist can make sense of the wiring scheme you have installed in your house or business. In addition, knowing how to read a wiring diagram will ensure that you do not get the incorrect wiring strategy installed, which may cause immense damage. When you first start to comprehend how to read a diagram, then you may find that it is not all that easy. Moreover, a few of these diagrams may even beblack box diagrams, which are useful in showing the voltage of this wiring scheme, and it is absolutely crucial to knowing exactly what you have. If you would like to understand how to read a wiring diagram, it will help to concentrate on a single side of the diagram at a time. You then would proceed to the symbols for your power cords, and you would have to focus on the symbols to get the battery terminals, and of course, you would have to be aware of the symbols to the wires. This is only because the diagrams which these diagrams will show you're ones that are usually colour coded. However, the coloured symbols do not automatically signify that they represent the sorts of wires which exist in a certain circuit. Instead, they're indicators of this voltage of the wires in the circuit. By way of example, a cable diagram for a residential circuit, like a kitchen faucet, will show you the colors green, red, yellow, and blue. These colors indicate the electric power of each cable in the tap.chicken-cage.com/d/files/compuprint-4051-plus-manuale.pdf This can be useful information, since it will make it possible for you to know how much power each of these wires is capable of generating, which will allow you to understand why you have to use that particular faucet whenever you are trying to turn the water on or off. Unfortunately, this can also be true of a number of the genuine diagrams that are being given to customers and businesses that are using to set up pipes schemes, which are usually sold this way. The diagrams will most likely show you black boxes, and in many cases, those black boxes are missing. While this occurs, it is easy to confuse the cables to the other symbols that are found on the wiring diagram. When it comes to a wire diagram, you're going to see many symbols which are used to assist you realize how to read the diagram. Including the symbols for the wires, as well as ones that signify the insulation on the cables. This is because the insulation is what gives the wires by their insulation, and it is necessary that you know the different symbols which are employed to be able to ascertain the insulation that's been set on the cables. Therefore, if you should try to locate a wiring diagram without being aware of what the different symbols which are used are, you would not be able to correctly interpret the symbols on the cable diagram, which means you might end up getting the wrong wiring strategy installed in your residence or business. Obviously, the best way to learn how to read a wiring diagram would be to take some opportunity to educate yourself about the various symbols which will be found on the diagrams. This can be done through an interactive, step-by-step manual that provides video tutorials, so that you can see exactly what you are looking at and make the proper connections. Click here for more information on the types of cookies we use and how to change your cookie settings. Get help, plus product tips and tricks. Or see how others are using Bose products. Ask questions and share your own experiences. Let us help. What makes the L1 Compact portable line array system different from other L1 portable line array systems? What is the optimal placement when using 10 hours ago kadcyla chemotherapie rezept aranea apotheke compact gutschein inimur tropfen luffeel 360 infectopyoderm erfahrungen sheet copas glucose pdf odlazak.Please take the time to follow the instructions in this owner's guide carefully. It will help you set up and operate your system 26 Nov 2018 Welcome to the Bose Portable PA Community. Please read this owner's guide. Please take the time to follow the instructions in this owner's guide carefully. L1 Model I Speakers pdf manual download. Also for: L1.View and Download. Bose L1 Compact owner's manual online. Bose L1 Compact Portable System Introducing the L1 Compact portable line array system. Carry it in one trip. Portable Line. Array System. L1 Compact Speakers pdf manual download. Use Peatix for any event and ticketing needs! Co-organizers can edit group and event pages, access sales and attendee information, manage ticket sales and more. Please turn it on so that you experience this site's full capabilities. With more than 700 stores with over 10,000 colleagues, we're the UK's leading retailer of automotive and cycling products. We are also the leading operator in MOT, tyres, car servicing and car repairs - pleasing more than 750,000 customers every year. 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